O'ahu, Hawaii

I arrived in Honolulu before I left Sydney. Crossing the international date line fiddles with the mind a little. This became especially apparent when I arrived at the hostel on Waikiki beach and asked to check in. On seeing the a frown and and pursed lips on the face of the friendly receptionist I immediately realised that I'd not actually booked a room for that night. I could only think of the high-end hotels around the area and how much this mistake might cost me! Sleeping on the beach popped into my head, but in raining season probably not an option. I popped on the net and checked for any spaces in hostels - but of course, with new years eve the next day, there was nothing. I ditched the bag and went on a rece to the hotels in the area to get an idea of prices. All were between $350 and $450 per night, and seemed to be only the high-class rooms - although I must admit it was tempting to grab a penthouse suite with spa, and full sea-view for one night. Eventually (and quite close to the hostel) I found a hotel that had a $125 room - I took it immediately!

Back at the hostel I grabbed my bag and got chatting to a friendly, cute girl from New Zealand. We were both heading down the beach so decided to hang out. I had to get changed into my swimming shorts at the hotel but the room wasn't ready. The receptionist said I could use the bag room to get changed, but there was CCTV with a monitor in reception - she promised not to look and I donned my shorts, superman style.

The next 18 hours, we decided, was our new years eve - a sleep-deprived whirlwind of conversation, sunshine, swimming, cocktails and terry-towelling jumpsuits - I've rarely had such a fantastic, instant, connection with someone. At 5am the next morning I waved my new partner-in-crime off in a taxi - she, sadly, had to fly home.

After catching up on sleep I moved to the hostel, where I had a booking for that evening. The official new years was that evening, but I wasn't feeling it - dramatically missing my Kiwi buddy. In my hostel room were some welcoming Argentinians who'd already started the celebrations - they thrust a beer in my hand and the party, once again, started!

At midnight thousands gathered on Waikiki beach to watch the fireworks. Afterwards we did a little clubbing, dancing about to some dubstep then ended up swimming in the sea around 3am. The dip sobered me up quickly and then I had to go back and get some kip. New years eve (part 2) complete.

Everest trek - Day 2 - Benkar to Namche

2720m to 3450 (+730m)
5.5km - 6 hours

No altitude related sleep-disorders yet; had a great nights sleep! The only altitude I've so far felt was feeling a little short of breath in the plane. Today our trek would take us well over 3000m. At 6am we haul the rucksacks onto slightly aching shoulders and head straight out, we'd said farewell to the friendly family the night before. For a while the path is the same easy valley walking as yesterday, heading up to the Everest national park entrance gate at Jorsalle. We buy our permits for (the recently revised) 3000 Rupees each. Behind the clerk desk is a statistics board containing trekker numbers for every month dating back to 1998; the jump in trekker numbers from September (2,000) to October (10,000) is dramatic - I think we came at the right time!

Stat's

Park entrance

The beautiful view from the park gate into the Everest national park 

Through the cleansing gate, admiring the artwork and spinning the wheels the path drops steep to a long bridge. Over the crossing is your last chance of refreshments before Namche; I would recommend you grab something! The path crosses the river again then splits; one path following the river left and the other going up, steep! We ask a yak man and he says either way is good. Knowing Namche is 700m above we decide that vertical might be a more painful but quicker option - don't take this route - the path goes up, and up, then down, then up but then joins back down at the next bridge - I think this is only used when the river is dramatically swollen; it's a waste of energy! After the next bridge over the confluence is where the fun really starts! A steep, rocky path zig-zags up the mountainside all the way to Namche. It's quite a slog, and it's here you can really start to feel the 30% less oxygen! The weather had cleared and the sun was scorching, luckily the trees provided some shade. We filled the water bottles at streams and popped in iodine tablets, the only downside being the 30 minutes wait for them to action, and also the swimming pool aroma when drunk. Half way up is a little clearing with the first view of Everest, although we could only see distant clouds. After three hours of one foot slowly in front of the other we gladly removed the rucksacks at the Namche police checkpoint to show our TIMS passes. Putting the rucksacks back on to cold, sweaty backs was refreshing, if a little shocking at first and we cruised through the Namche cleansing gate at around midday. 

Heading up the main street past the water-powered prayer wheels we took a left up another main looking street, and at the end we found a triple room at the Valley view lodge. The place is again clean and comfortable (blankets provided) and an absolute bargain at 50 Rupees each! For dinner me and Dave thought we'd try a yak steak (it's not recommended to eat this any higher at this time of year). I wasn't sold on it although I suspect it was the sauce giving it an odd flavour; I'd like to try it plain. It was noticeably cool here in the evening and fleeces and socks were worn in the restaurant as the stove wasn't lit, as we were the only guests. We were all tucked up in bed by 7pm listening to the rain pattering on the roof outside - nicely exhausted!

Gate art - naughty Buddha!

Everest trek - Day 1 - Lukla to Benkar

2850m to 2720m (-130m)
9.0km - 5 hours

Before we knew it our 7:45am flight from Kathmandu dived for Lukla airport. Everyone strained their heads to look at the runway approaching at an odd angle through the open pilots door! The journey was mostly cloudy but we had occasional glimpses of Annapurna and Lhotse through the left hand windows. The landing was silky with a super-quick stop and fast turn into the parking area. Within minutes me, my sister (Helen) and her husband (Dave) were off the plane and being escorted by the Nepalese army to the baggage collection. At this point the plane was heading back to the runway for take-off - the turnaround time is rapid! 

Bags in hand we grabbed a little breakfast with a view of the planes coming in and out, surrounded by eager-to-help porters, then around 10am merrily began the trek. The trail heads down some rough steps for twenty minutes before bottoming out at Ghat, it was a little slippery from morning mists! Already there were lots of porters carrying everything from water to windows; I made a bad joke (true to form) stating "that must be a pane to carry!" - no-one laughed. The path then is relatively flat and easy going into Pakding where we stopped for some soup. I was told that Sherpas swear by garlic soup as a preventative for altitude sickness, so I started my course here, just to see if there was any effect (apart from repelling any other living thing). 

Spin the Mani wheels clockwise and walk left around the prayer poles and Mani stones then just out of Pakding you encounter your first big suspension bridge, covered in prayer flags. From then it's a nice little introduction to ups and downs as the path weaves through trees and over tiny waterfalls, along the valley edge and into the side-valleys. 

Most people push past Benkar but at 3pm we came across a very inviting lodge called simply "Benkar guest house" - they had a triple room for 150 Rupees each. The room was clean and comfortable, with blankets provided. I've been craving good cheese for the last 8 months and Helen and Dave presented me with a large (now sweaty) block of Harrods vintage cheddar from Heathrow airport - I devoured it in under 5 minutes. We ordered a daal bhat for dinner and sat outside the lodge, with the rain now falling. It was extremely quiet, there were only a few other people trekking past. 

First glimpse of something big

Dave and beginner prayer wheel

Bagan, Myanmar

I hadn't seen another tourist in a week so the Italian coffee, wi-fi and burgers of Myanmar's most touristic destination were welcome! I spent over a week here in a friendly guest house called Shwe Ni Di - I had a room for $7 a night. I had a bicycle to get around on - by far the best way of getting to and around the 2500 Stupas that pepper the desert-like terrain just outside old Bagan.    

My hairdresser

My bicycle

A few of the many many many many temples!

He supplied the postcards you received

The guest house had wash-basins outside - it was fresh to have a wash in the morning sunshine!

I found a little cafe with the name "Wetherspoons" and had to investigate further (Wetherspoons is a chain of cheap pubs in the UK). The owner, Winton, trained as a chef in Bristol, in the Cambridge arms! I've been in this pub several times when I lived in Bristol. He learned to make burgers - very very good burgers! The burgers here are the best I've had anywhere on my travels - It's surreal coming across a place like this!

Winton

THE BEST BURGER IN ASIA!

An advertising board on the main street costs $3000 a year to hire. You can only hire it for a year - there's no weekly or monthly options. The board has been empty for years!

Burmese curry set and a fake 7eleven

Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar

One hour out of Yangon on the number 43 bus is the Yangon main bus station; It's more like a small town populated by buses. The amount of people that smile and wave is incredible. Everyone offers to help carry my bag and ask to see my ticket, then ushering me deeper into muddy bus town; how anyone knows where anything is here is beyond me! Directed by countless people I arrive at a concrete room housing the bus company I'm travelling with. Once checked on I grab some noodles and watch the world go by for an hour. There's no other tourists to be seen anywhere.

The bus is described as a sleeper but only as in you might be able to sleep, sitting up, while the bus bounces and judders, all night. The tilt on my seat doesn't seem to work too well, but the lady in front tilts hers back fine. I use this setup to my advantage and wedge my head between the back of her headrest and my bag, which is now on my lap. The bus stops so many times, all through the night; after a few times I don't even bother getting off the bus. You can see the rest stops from about 4km away as they have lasers, neon signs, flashing full-size palm trees and loud music from a giant Samsung TV.

I'm woken up abruptly and told this is my stop. I blearily look at my watch (5am) and get off the bus. I now have to go 15km to Nyaung Shwe and the only option (short of waiting hours for a bus in the rain) is to get a taxi. As I'm alone I reluctantly stump up 7,000 Kyat (locals can apparently take this journey for 500) and pay a $5 entrance fee to the lake area, as it's a national park. I feel like I've been fleeced!

I get a room at the Nandawunn for $11 a night (down from $16). Nyaung Shwe is said to be the the most touristic place in Myanmar and the prices reflect this. The focus of the tourism is a beautiful lake surrounded by misty mountains peppered with hundreds of Pagodas. The lake is 22km long but you can't stroll around it as there's no paths. People get about on boats, and the houses and businesses around the lake and rivers are all stilted. I join 3 Chinese people and hire a boat and driver for the day (3,000 Kyat each). The boats are long and fast; we shoot down the river and into the lake past a huge welcome sign. We approach traditional fishermen who row using their right foot in a figure-eight motion, while standing. It looks extremely difficult but leaves their hands free to collect or distribute the nets. We leave the south side of the lake and enter a network of muddy fast flowing rivers. The driver skillfully manouvers the long boat around tight corners and through narrow stilted villages. The trip is well worth the money, here's what we saw;

 - Cigar making
 - Cotton weaving
 - Silk weaving
 - Boat making
 - Lotus weaving
 - Silversmith
 - Food market
 - Paper making
 - Various temples
 - Jumping cat monastery

Yep, Monks, in their spare time, have taught the cats to jump through hoops, for treats. There must be 10 or 11 cats of varying sizes and skills in jumping. One in particular is obviously the king and gracefully flies through hoop after hoop.  When the cats aren't jumping they sleep and wash amongst the many Buddhas. At the end of the day we dart north across the lake smoking some hand-rolled cigars and back up the river into Nyaung Shwe. Me and a Chinese girl on the boat learn we share the same birthday and perform the "birthday twin" hug, then part company.

It rains a lot in the rainy season. I didn't see blue sky once. This does however mean fewer tourists; there's barely anyone here. Umbrella's are essential, as is ducking into a cafe when a particularly heaviy downpour appears. One of these cafe's was Indra; a tiny little Indian with four tables and a warm welcome from Miss Indra, her daughters and brother. The first time here I ate a mutton curry with chapathi and chilli and mango side dishes, the second time I had a tandoori; both delicious. Speaking with Miss Indra's brother he talks about how he had drawn plans for a website, but doesn't know how to put one together. As the food's so good I offer the services of Bishshat to build the site and get some free chai ;)

Waiting for the bus out I managed to catch some of the Olympics in a little cafe. It was women's cycling. Despite the rain I had a deep hankering to be back in London; I've cycled those exact streets many times. The Brazilian leader was causing much merriment among the Burmese men I was sitting with!

Women's cycling - good spectator sport

You can see all of my photos here