Franz Joseph, New Zealand

Once off the tranz-alpine train from Christchurch I considered getting a car for the remaining journey around the south island. This would be ideal and cost-efficient if there was two or more of us, but as it was only me the cheapest option would be $508, for 8 days - the most expensive quote was $1200! I ditched that idea as there's no guarantee I'd meet a hitch-hiker, or someone in a hostel going the same direction. Back to the bus then - I hopped on the intercity.

Franz Joseph lies at the foot of a glacier on the west coast of the south island. A tiny town - most of it geared to tourism. The YHA is big, with some large, busy rooms. Mine was a 10 bed dorm, and was populated by girls - mostly German. Sometime you have to pinch yourself to realise that you're not in Germany, there's SO many Germans here it's unbelievable. However, the girl underneath me was from Birmingham - so we had a catch-up making silly noises (the Brummie accent) at each other to try and drown out the Germans. In the common room everybody was busy behind a laptop - maybe 25 people all connecting to the outside world, but nobody connecting to the people around them. I sat and watched for a while entranced - then opened my laptop.

I walked up to the glacier, but as it's considered a hazard at the moment (they're blasting the face to make it tourist safe) you can only get within 2km of it (unless you take a helicopter). It's a good 3 hour walk from the town, though a forest area, with signs telling you where the glacier was 500 years ago. I was spotted a mile off (literally) by two Germans I'd met on the dolphin boat in Kaikoura - they said my red beanie was quite distinctive! I caught a 30 minute bus around to the Fox glacier for a look around. This one's much more accessible - you can get within 500m of it, and the walk up is much more impressive. You can also walk up onto this one with a guide - no helicopter required. Unfortunately there's no YHA in Fox, so my discount vouchers weren't valid.

Back in Franz I went to the Kiwi experience. For $30 (which goes towards the conservation) you get to see one of these super-cute little things - but as they're nocturnal you're in an almost pitch-black room with only red glowing lights. I really wanted to hold one, they're little balls of fluff - but their sensitive endangered nature doesn't allow handling - boo! There's islands in Marlborough sounds that have had all predators (cats, stoats) removed - and Kiwi's installed.

Photos coming soon - I haven't actually found internet fast enough to upload them yet

Tranz-Alpine railway

After the brain-fart on the buses (you can call me Blakey) all was once again going smooth. The only hitch was that I didn't pre-book the YHA Christchurch early enough - there's still a real shortage of accommodation here since the earthquake. I stayed at a place called "at the right place" - also a backpackers. It was nice, apart from two English guys and one Irish who decided they would get exceedingly drunk in the common room while everyone was relaxed watching films. They fought with each other, called everyone in the room "gay", balanced bottles of Becks as decorations on the Christmas tree then knocked the tree over onto a poor French girl. Within 20 minutes everyone had gone to their rooms - god help the people that were in the dorm with them. I didn't feel like I was "at the right place"

I woke up excited the next morning, a journey on the tranz-alpine railway to Greymouth on the west coast - billed as "one of the most scenic train journeys in the world". Like an airport the bags are checked in and you take your seat next to a huge, and ridiculously clean, window. It's very comfortable, and quiet, and air-conditioned. There's a lot of older couples on the train - I think I was the only single person, and certainly the only backpacker. The train rumbles off through the beautiful flatlands surrounding Christchurch and the mountains loom into view. As soon as this happens everybody heads to the outdoor viewing car, which is great! The first part is stunning, the train grinding up to Arthurs pass, across the top of the alps. Snow-capped peaks, rushing rivers and flowery meadows breeze past, the air is so fresh, the body almost rejects it as unknown. The trains stops at various points on the way up, then at Arthurs pass at the top.

The food and drinks are reasonably priced - the cheese and steak pie was amazing! On the way down from the pass en route to Greymouth the scenery is still lovely, but it becomes bushier on the sides, and you get to see less. I spent most of the journey in the open viewing car - I didn't like being stuck in the sterile, quiet carriages - by the end of the journey I was craving the Asian style trains: open windows, noise, food sellers plying the aisles, uncomfortable seats and people on the roof - but that's just me. In hindsight I would hire a car and drive from Christchurch to Greymouth. It's a lot cheaper and the route is the same but you can stop where you like and explore, take pictures or grab some food.