Khon Kaen, Thailand

Khon Kaen is a large university town and this was kind of a stop off for us on the journey south. The usual bus munchies haunted us and we opted for a whole chicken on a stick. There's something so ridiculous about chickens on sticks, it fast becomes hilarious!

We get off the bus at the air-conditioned or the non-air-conditioned bus terminal, I forget which! There's not much in the way of tourists or tourist accommodation here, if anything. We ask at a few hotels but some have no free wi-fi (?), some are expensive and some are closed. We eventually find one called hotel Roma. It's like a 1980's business hotel with the biggest foyer this side of Las Vegas; which is fine, if you have something to put in it, like a giant fountain or fighting midgets. Once the 20 minute walk to reception is complete we check-in and are shown to the room. The porter opens the door to dimness and quickly puts the television on. Once he's gone our eyes adjust and start to investigate. The reason for lack of light is apparent; the two main light bulbs are missing, only the light above the odd-shaped mirror is working. There's no windows here, just a metal mesh that leads out onto a rooftop. There's a beautiful patch of damp above the mirror and in the other corners. The TV wires are lead across the wall and up to the ceiling. The bedding was clean and the bathroom fine so I'm not complaining, I actually like it; it wins an award as one of the most memorable rooms I've stayed in! I since did a little research and now realise that the room we had was in the old wing and we paid 230 Baht. People who left good reviews paid 600 Baht. If I went back knowing this I'd choose the 230 Baht room. 

Reception (echo... echo... echo... echo...)

Ceiling fan regulator

We took dinner at the Roma, as there were 2 live bands playing and they were good; playing 80's and modern pop classics. It's a shame that only about 10 people were watching. I guess that they were music students from the university although one or two of the band members looked like John Lennon might do if he was alive today.

Our bus was due to leave that evening so we powered around the town. It's hot, really hot. I had a few moments where I felt incredibly dizzy. Maybe I was a little sick, or de-hydrated; I found myself ducking to any shade I could find and had intense relief from air-conditioning (normally I'm the opposite). One Wat we ducked into had a hoard of 300+ Monks, all in robes, eating lunch. The sea of orange is a photographers dream but who wants to have their picture taken while eating? We decided against it and moved on to the huge main hall, expecting it to have an enormous Buddha inside. It didn't! (see photo)

There's a skate park near the top of the lake. I can't imagine anyone skating on it anymore! The quarter-pipes had huge holes and the paint was peeling off. The boxes were split and the rails rusty. I guess no-one skates in Khon Kaen anymore which is a shame as it could be a great park. In a similar state is a giant concrete open air amphitheatre a little further round from the skate park; I'm not sure when the last performance was here, but I would guess at a while ago! Getting on a stage is the last thing I would do with an audience present but it's usually the first thing I do if alone or with close friends. Underneath the stage is a local museum; It didn't look particularly interesting, maybe we just weren't in the mood.

Skate with your life

The turnout for Charlie Sheen's new show was bad

There is was. It knew our bodies were sugar-starved. Before I could open my mouth to say something Anna was there and schmoozing with the friendly owner. The Tasty Chocolate shop sells real Belgian chocolates, at a premium of course. We opted for the "lets treats ourselves" thought pattern and bought 4 individual chocolates each and one large tub of white freezing cold chocolate buttons. Anna also bought a chocolate cake and the lady gave us one free. Nicely bagged with a block of ice we happily munch our way out of the shop. I was first to overdose and flat-refused the second cake (I'm more savoury than sweet) which we gave to a surprised lady on the street. Anna, like a trooper, continued with the chocolate binge for a little while longer until the sheer number of buttons got the better of her. We now only had an hour before the coach left so I bought a new T-shirt and we hid in a deliciously-freezing McDonald's with some fresh orange juice (confession: I had a bouncy fillet of fish also). Next stop Nang Rong!

Phayao, Thailand

We get on a ridiculously groovy bus in Chiang Rai and make the pleasant 5 hour journey to Phayao. I have my head hanging out of the window like a dog for most of the journey so my face feels like I've had plastic surgery on arrival. Looking for accommodation we bump into a buxom happy lady selling nicely hand painted bookmarks and postcards. She helps us out loads (to the point of us following her like sheep while she motorcycles in front) so we buy a couple of thing from her to say thanks. Phayao is nearly off the tourist radar so there are no guest houses or dorm's. What is does have though is (one) concrete monster of a hotel (say prison) with bags of character. It's called Tharn Thong and I suspect that this may be the only place to stay here. Walking into reception is like going back in time with 80's wood styling and furnishings abound and colours to match. The absolute highlight must be the switchboard. I won't describe it so look at the picture down the page - epic - I would like one in my home. The receptionists , who seem a little bewildered that we're there, offer us a clean and functional room for a bargain 170 Baht. It has the essential feature in the old style analogue phone that connects to the epic switchboard.

I love to mooch about and Phayao is amazing for this, almost perfect. There's lots to see in every day things. We thought about hiring a bike from the hotel but they all had punctures and no pump so we stroll off in a random direction. There's a group of local men gathered and a pretty Thai girl in a red and white outfit shouting down a microphone; turns out she's selling power tools. Around the corner there's a little man making what look like "chromozones" in what appears to be his living room. His wife is also happily tidying in the background so we say hi and grab a bag - and they're delicious.

There's lots of Wat's here, in various states of repair, all un-touristic, with monks slowly going about their business. Inside they're nothing special at all with old sofas pushed around the edges; I like this, it gives them a homely feel. The quiet roads are lined with spacious wooden houses with little gardens and driveways, there's an obvious pride in the town.

Panel from a Wat - with mosaic tiles missing

Wat Sri Khom Kham is a curious place. Slightly out of the town on the main road. Inside the main building is a giant sitting Buddha with a lap width of 14 meters. Around the edge are small electronic Buddha's in glass boxes, all in the different poses depending on what you want to pray for. You pop a coin in and something is shouted at you. We had a look around the back at the monastery where the young monks were pretending martial arts with brooms; until Anna walks past and they stop and giggle to each other. Further round there's a Buddhist depiction of hell (Naraka) in sculptures. I've not seen anything quite like this, containing endless suffering (until rebirth) and nudity in equal measures.

With some giant dark clouds approaching we head back and get to the lake in time to shelter under some trees. The lake is the largest freshwater lake in the north and has a sunken temple in the middle. We didn't visit it but you can pay a local to take you out in his rowing boat (motorboats not allowed). I'm not sure how you would actually see the temple from the surface but you can see it on a Google earth satellite image. With the rain now coming through the trees we run to a bandstand, populated by someone who's been removing some speakers from a huge stage with the picture of the king on it. I nip to a little stall and grab 3 Changs for us to wait the rain out. Questioning him wasn't easy, he spoke broken English, but Anna reported that he'd blurted fluent English when I went to get the beers!? (I'll check with her and update). The weather cleared and we saw a large fire in the distance and also the first other westerner we'd seen, with his Thai girlfriend. 

Long live the king

Serpent on the lake

Post-storm sunset

We'd read about a falang pizza place on wikitravel and my cheese craving was driving us to find it. It took 20 minutes (with some pictures of the St. Georges cross (Jubilee?) drains) then it melted into view: brick oven pizza! My mouth was already salivating by the time the friendly waitress from a southern US states greets us and we quickly order a half-and-half. One half being a cheese extravaganza and the other a meaty pepperoni. No beer is sold here and we ask if we can grab one from a shop and drink it at the table. We get a flat no. The pizza is tasty and is munched in a few minutes (I greedily had Anna's last slice). It contained genuine mozzarella and other "real" cheeses (it's been a while for me). My only preference is that I would like a thin or thick crust choice ;) About an hour later I get the very satisfied feeling of chronic indigestion and the cheese-sweats. Bliss. I shall be updating the wikitravel entry with some of this information when I get a moment.

Siem Reap, Cambodia

The journey there was bad; the absolute worst part (for me) was the stench. I'd heard of durian (the stink fruit) but had never been exposed to one in an enclosed place. A lady monk sitting next to me was happily munching her way through one and the pungent aroma penetrated every part of my soul. It was so bad at points that I kept gagging. No-one else had quite the reaction I had, I thought I was going to be sick and Talitha said I looked extremely pale. In the end I sat at the back of the coach where it wasn't so bad, and I could put my nose up a freezing cold aircon vent. I'm pretty sure these things are banned in public places, but maybe monks are allowed. When the coach stopped I was always first off.

Durian - the worst smelling thing on the planet

During the whole trip there was a massive thunderstorm raging and we're waiting to get back on the coach when an angry Thor produces a gigantic FLASH and CRACK all around us and immediately the loudest thunder I've ever heard, shaking the ground. The lightning hit the restaurant, or as near as. My ears were ringing afterwards and people were almost huddled into one area in the middle of the restaurant making nervous excited noises. Quite an exciting and scary experience!

Savage rainfall

Arriving in Siem Reap we're greeted at the coach by a smiley tuk-tuk driver, who later becomes our guide, driver and facebook "friend". He takes us to the "Backpacker hostel" (great name!) and we're shown to a dormitory which is a row of hammocks in the loft, with no lockers anywhere and peoples stuff lying about. Not sure I trust my camera and laptop to be left in here. We opt for a triple room, which works out the same at $5 per night each. The room is huge containing three double beds. We'll take it.

A room full of beds

Next day we shake off the few "pub street" beers from last night with a quick breakfast of "toast and cheese" when an eager Walter turns up (in an amazing T-shirt) to take us to Angkor, bang on time at 9am.

Cheese and toast

Tooled up with shades, hats, water and brollies we head off. Twenty minutes in the tuk-tuk and we arrive at the edge of the old city of Angkor. The whole area is littered with ruins and Walter starts with a few smaller ones to get us in the mood; dropping us off at one side and patiently waiting for us at the other end. The scale is immense with the ancient Khmer capital covering an area of 1000 square km and some estimates of 1,000,000 people living here. Where the trees have taken root on and under some temples they twist and drip their way around the stones - it looks incredible!

Most of the morning is spent around these smaller ruins until we stop for some lunch at Walters favourite food joint (i.e. the place he gets commission / free food). I have what Walter has: a special "morning glory" not on the menu which is spicy delicious!

After lunch we decide to leave Angkor Wat for sunrise next day so do the bigger Buddhist temples at nearby Angkor Tom. For me these are even more impressive than Angkor Wat; the Bayon temple is especially magical.

Hug a Monk

You couldn't plan this

That sunset we walk up Bakheng hill. Although not treated to a sunset we saw an impressive storm
approaching followed by monster rains; pre-planned umbrella goodness! Once they realised the sunset wasn't going to happen we're kicked off the hill by security and head back down to meet Walter who takes us back to Siem Reap; the tuk-tuk rain covers in place.

 Sunset

Walter organises a $12 traditional Aspara and all you can eat buffet evening for us at the Koulen II restaurant. We arrive in his tuk-tuk and walk in to the hue covered seating area, with a giant buffet selection of any Asian food you could ever want to eat! Full of hunger we attack the buffet with the usual vigour, going back for seconds (and in Talitha and Em's case thirds). I don't have the same skills in plate design as the girls though.

Stuart = ugly

Talitha = beautiful

Once bellies are full the traditional musicians leave the stage and the show starts. The dancing is hypnotic, the moves being so carefully orchestrated and depicting everyday scenes from Cambodian life, like fishing and farming. The costumes are stunning, as are the dancers themselves. I would recommend this to anyone with an evening to kill in Siem Reap. During the show the storm picks up pace again and the rain on the metal roof almost drowns out the musicians! The wind howls through the open sides of the venue and brings fine sprays of rain to everyone! The ceiling lights shake and wobble with the thunder. Highly dramatic are the storms in Cambodia, unlike anywhere else I've been so far.

Pre-show musicians (possibly playing gamalan?) 

Aspara dancers

Roof lights moving and shaking in the storm

After the show we head to pub street for a couple of beers. The rain has created rivers of roads and the tuk-tuk drivers can barely get the tuk-tuks down the road! Wading though the water we get to the bar and have a beer. Later we move to another bar over the road as the premier league final is on the TV. Not normally one to watch the football I'm not so interested at first but it turns out to be a historic game between the Manchester rivals - with Manchester City clinching the title in the last two minutes! The staff in the restaurant go crazy, all Manchester United supporters of course.

Beautiful ladies

Next morning we're blearily up at 4am to see the Angkor Wat sunrise. Pitch black and a little cool on the way there the rain has stopped but the clouds are still around. On arrival we're given (English) names and numbers of food stalls to go to for breakfast once the sun was up; the one that stood out for me was John and we promise to go to his stall. We perch in a temple on the right of Angkor Wat, defying the "best view here" cries from locals who had set up mats on the ground near the left hand lake.

Waiting for the sun

The clouds stubbornly refuse to budge and we never get to see the actual sun over the Wat but there's something about this place; just being there and seeing such a famous view it's breathtaking, for me the same as the Taj Mahal at sunset. The sun rises and the silhouette of the famous towers take shape.

Once light, as promised, we're off to John's cafe for an omelette and baguette then before the crowds and heat arrive we nip over to the Wat for a look around. Inside it's huge, but quite serene, and we go our own ways for a little "me-time" with Shiva and the incredible architecture. It's a shame you can't go up into the towers, although someone later said that it was possible at certain times. The heat levels rose dramatically as the sun burned away the clouds and I wondered out into the gardens for some shelter under the trees.

Rapidly I developed almighty stomach cramp and ran to the nearest toilet; It could only have been the buffet last night. I later found out that Emily had the same issue not an hour before. In the toilet this sign amused me greatly;

Old habits die hard in Asia