Everest trek - Day 2 - Benkar to Namche

2720m to 3450 (+730m)
5.5km - 6 hours

No altitude related sleep-disorders yet; had a great nights sleep! The only altitude I've so far felt was feeling a little short of breath in the plane. Today our trek would take us well over 3000m. At 6am we haul the rucksacks onto slightly aching shoulders and head straight out, we'd said farewell to the friendly family the night before. For a while the path is the same easy valley walking as yesterday, heading up to the Everest national park entrance gate at Jorsalle. We buy our permits for (the recently revised) 3000 Rupees each. Behind the clerk desk is a statistics board containing trekker numbers for every month dating back to 1998; the jump in trekker numbers from September (2,000) to October (10,000) is dramatic - I think we came at the right time!

Stat's

Park entrance

The beautiful view from the park gate into the Everest national park 

Through the cleansing gate, admiring the artwork and spinning the wheels the path drops steep to a long bridge. Over the crossing is your last chance of refreshments before Namche; I would recommend you grab something! The path crosses the river again then splits; one path following the river left and the other going up, steep! We ask a yak man and he says either way is good. Knowing Namche is 700m above we decide that vertical might be a more painful but quicker option - don't take this route - the path goes up, and up, then down, then up but then joins back down at the next bridge - I think this is only used when the river is dramatically swollen; it's a waste of energy! After the next bridge over the confluence is where the fun really starts! A steep, rocky path zig-zags up the mountainside all the way to Namche. It's quite a slog, and it's here you can really start to feel the 30% less oxygen! The weather had cleared and the sun was scorching, luckily the trees provided some shade. We filled the water bottles at streams and popped in iodine tablets, the only downside being the 30 minutes wait for them to action, and also the swimming pool aroma when drunk. Half way up is a little clearing with the first view of Everest, although we could only see distant clouds. After three hours of one foot slowly in front of the other we gladly removed the rucksacks at the Namche police checkpoint to show our TIMS passes. Putting the rucksacks back on to cold, sweaty backs was refreshing, if a little shocking at first and we cruised through the Namche cleansing gate at around midday. 

Heading up the main street past the water-powered prayer wheels we took a left up another main looking street, and at the end we found a triple room at the Valley view lodge. The place is again clean and comfortable (blankets provided) and an absolute bargain at 50 Rupees each! For dinner me and Dave thought we'd try a yak steak (it's not recommended to eat this any higher at this time of year). I wasn't sold on it although I suspect it was the sauce giving it an odd flavour; I'd like to try it plain. It was noticeably cool here in the evening and fleeces and socks were worn in the restaurant as the stove wasn't lit, as we were the only guests. We were all tucked up in bed by 7pm listening to the rain pattering on the roof outside - nicely exhausted!

Gate art - naughty Buddha!