Hanoi, Vietnam

(We're in Hanoi three times, using it as a base to go to Ha Long bay then Sapa then to the south. I'll put all three times in this post to keep it together)

1st time (14th April 2012)

New country! The third country on my trip (not counting the brief scout into Bangkok). The only option from the airport to Hanoi old quarter seems to be a taxi. Very nicely they tell us that another (Australian) couple are also going that way and we should share a cab with them. We will see this couple at many random intervals in Vietnam! The cab journey was extremely serene. The driver was very cautious. I thought it was just because my last reference was India, where nothing's serene, but the Australians thought to too. On arrival at the Hanoi old quarter we split from the Australians and walk about the main street looking for some cheap accommodation. Things are a lot easier here, everything feels a lot more western. Language is a bigger barrier here; English is not as widely spoken as in India, but it's extremely easy to pick up and recognise certain words. The main street in the French old quarter is bustling with people chatting, eating and drinking on tiny little bright blue or red plastic chairs. Motorbikes buzz about constantly with two, three, four and five people (and sometimes animals) on-board. We come across a hotel called the Queen palace. It's $15 a night for a twin room. Nothing special, just functional. As it's late and we're shattered from travelling for what seems like an eternity we take it and, after a quick local beer, pass out.

Next day we grab the free breakfast of baguette, fried egg and a cheese triangle then head out. The roads are infinitely busier now but still no-where near as crazy as India. The coffee here is extremely surprising at first. It tastes strong, almost like liquorish, and is very sweet when mixed with condensed milk. I assumed I would gain a kick from the caffeine but there was almost nothing. Is this because of my new mountain dew addiction? (which you can't get in Vietnam). What happened to the caffeine? Vietnam is the number two coffee exporter in the world (after Brazil), exporting double the amount of Colombia, so maybe they sell all the good stuff elsewhere, like Sri Lanka does with tea. I was a little disappointed, but still love the unique flavour.

You want buy hat?

Over the next two days we mostly say no thank you to people trying to sell you everything and anything. The variety of things to buy is mind-boggling. Wanting to ditch the stained, sweaty t-shirts I've been wearing for the last two months, and with Talitha threatening not to travel any further with me, I searched high and low for something with NO logo on it (to no avail). I don't need a t-shirt with Vietnamese beer logos and I definitely do not want one with "iPHO" emblazoned on the front. Just a nice, plain t-shirt would be lovely.

The food is just delicious. PHO (noodles) and COM (rice) with either GA (chicken) or BO (beef), and a side order of spring rolls and washed down with a BIA or CA PHE (I'll let you work those two out). The food is most delicious from the tiniest little street cafe's, where they might also serve BIA HOI: home-brewed, un-licenced, super-cheap and refreshing beer (quality does vary mind!) I learned last night, from a Dutch / Vietnamese girl, that the little accents that look like question marks mean you pronounce the word like a question, with an upwards inflection - even though it might not be a question.

For the second night we find a dorm in a hostel called May de Ville. It's $6 a night so not particularly cheap but it was amazing in every way. They booked our open bus ticket, booked the Ha Long and booked the Sapa tour, all with phone support if we needed it (thanks to ......). They had a free breakfast on the lovely rooftop cafe, the beds were big and comfortable and the shower was amazing. The only issue was the wi-fi in the rooms. It was shockingly bad to non-existent, despite the constant badgering (from everyone) of the technical guy. It was fine in reception though. For your information May de Ville also have a hotel in Hanoi, which I assume is severely more expensive! Next stop Ha Long bay

2nd time (18th April 2012)

The second time in Hanoi we literally arrive back from Ha Long bay in the afternoon. We go back to the May de Ville hostel who very kindly let us rest and use the internet until our bus arrived. We're recommended some pho by the doorman at the hostel. The cafe is tiny (maybe 8 seats) and is tucked down a back alley. This turns out to be the best pho I'll have in Vietnam. Cue the night bus to Sapa!

3rd time (23rd April 2012)

Arriving at 6am from Sapa on a night bus. Broken sleep and the after-effects of Nytol are never good for your head together. Swamped by people wanting to take us to the old quarter we jump in a taxi. After all this time on the bus and now in a taxi I desperately need to walk, so jump out as soon as we reach the town.

The sleeper bus. Complete with FREEZING A/C.

We only have a day here and May de Ville very kindly let us have a private room for a shower and a sleep for a few hours, with free breakfast! (I cannot recommend this hostel enough). In the afternoon I go for a walk around the lake and meet a Vietnamese student lawyer who wishes to better his English. I spend two hours with him. His English was good, but pronunciation bad, except when he sang, when it was amazing! Sitting by a lake with a Vietnamese student singing Beatles songs to you is a surreal experience. Once done with the lake I find a Korean restaurant and grab some food. I have a new found love of Korean food.

Yummmmm

 

India to Vietnam

My flight is due to leave Kolkata airport at 01:30. At the airport I developed severe stomach cramps and spent most of my time in the toilets. What on earth caused this? I was feeling a little ill earlier in the day but it had cleared. I'd eaten quite normal food for the last couple of days. By the time I was on the plane I was feeling a little better, but avoided my in-flight meal, which seemed to baffle the air stewardess, who kept asking me if I would like the food yet.

The flight was over quick and I landed in Bangkok at 05:30. One I was finished (literally) fighting hoards of Chinese people to get through immigration I exit into the main area. I have twelve hours to kill - my flight is at 19:05. My bag is going to stay in the airport system, so all I have is my camera and laptop (with no charger and a flat battery!) - I would kill to clean my teeth and apply deodorant. Bangkok airport is a jaw-dropping place, possibly definitely one of the nicest airports I've ever been to. Huge, clean, cool and bright with everything laid out beautifully and logically. There's even a huge garden at the side, but I couldn't find a way into it so I suspect it's staff only.

I decide to catch the swish super-fast monorail into Bangkok centre for a look around. I arrived into the centre and everything's closed. What I didn't realise is that it's Thai new year! I call Talitha as I was set to meet her sometime today, and catch the same flight to Vietnam later that evening, but she's exhausted from an overnight bus trip and needs to sleep. Wandering about the markets for a while more and more people start gathering on the streets, with water-guns. I ask a young chap with a particularly scary and colourful water gun and I'm told that it's part of the new year celebrations - you will get wet! With no sleep, an ever-twisting stomach and my DSLR in a non-waterproof bag I decide it's probably best to get back to the safety of the airport!

Back at the airport my stomach is really churning and I decide that eating something might settle it. I marvel at the array of western eateries, of which I'd seen none in the last three months. I opt for a plain veggie subway - just the bread and salad stuff (no chillies!). Munching this and a flat warm coca-cola seemed to agitate the stomach violently, and I again spend the next 45 minutes in the toilet. I hate this, as they're so quiet, in an acoustic sense, but also busy with people in and out of the cubicles next to you. I also noted that the floor is so shiny you can see the person next door, as if you were lying on the floor underneath them! Once feeling a break in the cramps I decide I need a shower. Where can I get a shower? I notice a sign for the Bangkok airport hotel and head there down the quietest, shiniest passageway I've ever seen.

Passageway from the airport to the airport hotel

 The hotel reception is enormous. Nothing here is small, or basic. Marble, trees, glass and brass covers everything with a huge silver lotus flower high up in the middle - a shower here is going to cost me. The reception being so big however give me an advantage, in that I can sneak, unnoticed, to the health suite. There is no-one about so I follow the signs to the the second floor and enter the male changing rooms - heaven! Big showers, towels, toilets, jacuzzi! I notice an expensive looking watch, shirt and shoes near the lockers, and hear someone in one of the nearest showers. I grab a towel from the jacuzzi and hit the furthest shower. So good. So so good. Incredible what a simple shower can do for you, I instantly felt better. On the way out of the shower I bump into a posh looking western man, say a quick hi then leave sharply, before any questions could be asked. He viewed my attire with surprise! What's wrong with my worn out shorts, sweat-stained t-shirt and holy vans?? I grab a quick shot of the reception from the 2nd floor balcony and ninja-exit the hotel. Job done.

Airport hotel reception

Back in the airport and feeling better I decide to attempt to sleep on one of those uncomfortable three person plastic benches, tucked away near the monorail station, out of the way of the masses. Not thinking I'd sleep at all I wake up startled, three hours later, in such an odd position, wrapped up in my camera bag strap which I'd attached to myself to prevent sticky fingers, and with my now dead left arm almost trapped between the seats. I blearily look at the time - It's now 2pm. Only 5 hours to go! Testing the stomach situation I buy what looks like the healthiest drink I've ever seen. It has pictures of at least twenty fruits and vegetables on it and is indeed delicious, but it immediately gnarls the stomach, and I soon find myself in the toilets again. Dammit :(

Around 5pm the check-in opens. I await the arrival of a good friend, Talitha, with an inkling that she will appear at the top of a particular escalator. Twenty-five minutes later that exact escalator delivers. It's been a long time since I've seen her and we hug it out, compare brown factors (I lost) then head to the Vietnam airlines desk ready for the quick hop to Hanoi!