Everest trek - Day 4 - Namche to Tengboche

3500 to 3860 (+410m)
6.75km - 7 hours

Departing a rainy Namche at 6am the route heads east then switches north following the river far below. Occasional breaks in the weather give more glimpses of huge piles of rock; just when you think you'd seen the summit, something else appears higher in your line of sight. I prefer it like this and liken it to a beautiful lady (or man in Helens case) teasing us; If there were no clouds it would be a full frontal - and where's the fun in that?! We stop at the Ama Dablan lodge and Dave, who's had rumblings all morning, has to make a swift visit to the outside long-drop squatter. Maybe those sausages weren't such a good idea. The lodge owners are very friendly, and this would be worth considering as a second acclimatisation day as it's the same altitude as Namche. There's a big outside seating area with views down the valley - we had a quick glimpse of the mighty Ama Dablam before the clouds moved over again.

Feeding the crows 

First view of Ama Dablam

The route then went steep down into the now-thickening clouds. This was where we encountered our first companion dog; they randomly walk about on the trails following tourists and Sherpas and are very friendly and healthy, and greatly appreciate a biscuit or two. I'm ashamed to say I forget the name we issued this particular canine, maybe Hector - I'm sure Helen will correct me in the comments! Eventually you get down to Phunki Tenga and the Evergreen lodge next to the river. There's a sign saying that this is your last chance for refreshment before a two hour climb; this is not the case, there's three or four better cafe's over the river. Also the toilet in Evergreen was bad... very bad! We had a cup of instant noodles each (I had seconds!). Just before the marathon climb is a TIMS army checkpoint but they wouldn't let me take a picture for this diary. Dave was feeling extremely rough and weak, so I carried Helens bag on my front and she carried Dave's, but he still had to stop often for a rest or be at one with nature. We arrived at the top around 1pm and had a welcome cup of sweet black tea - It took well over two hours to get there!

We checked into the Tengboche guest house, a cute little place with good food and friendly staff (one of the girls was particularly cheeky). I had a compact and cheerful single room (blankets provided). There's a bakery next door but it was closed until high-season. At 3pm every day you can go into the monastery and sit with the monks as they chant, occasionally stopping to slurp hot tea. This was the first time I felt the cold, and switched my shorts for trousers. The weather was wet in the afternoon. In the evening the lodge owners lit the stove and we sat in the cosy restaurant for hours talking and discussing statistics! I had a Nepali curry, which was delicious and enormous; the rice and vegetables just kept coming!

Up up up up up up up up...

Bakery - closed :'(

Ella, Sri Lanka

A resident of Ella on the bus with stumps for legs and a weeping hand (he'd been to the hospital) wished me luck on my travels, a one-eyed man let me have a cup of tea for free and a Sri Lankan man called Roy supplied me with a gem of a room. Maybe my faith is now restored?

Getting off the bus into the cooler hill air of Ella I knew I'd like this place. The lush green hills surround this cute little town. Little cafe's and shops line the tiny street and people are super-smiley. Excited by the photo opportunities I sweated my way up (backpack and all) to the nearest vantage point, much to the amusement of tuk-tuk drivers (whom i'm boycotting). Up at the Ambience guest house the views are magnificent, down Ellas gap with Ellas rock on the right and little Ella on the left.

After gazing for ages I make the descent to try and find a guest house in my budget. Most places are overpriced because you have a view from your balcony or air conditioning. I just want a small room, good price. Fourth place i'd looked at: too expensive. Further down the street a Sri Lankan chap called Roy pops out "Room sir? Good price" The price is in budget (£14 for two nights) so I have a look. He leads me into some kind of palace thing with columns, then up stairs with big Japanese paintings at the top. As he opens the door he says "Room quite small sir". Expecting the worst the door opens into a GIANT room.

The mosquito net covers both beds

I ask Roy "Why so cheap?" and he just says "You're lucky". Once paid and Roy gone I sit in the little throne in the corner and wonder what on earth possessed someone to make such bad use of space?? There's a little table and two chairs, one double and one single bed. A throne, two sun loungers in the ceiling to floor windows and an en-suite. I'm still in wonder now, two days later! Was this the man on the buses doing?

Me on my throne, surveying my kingdom

Once I'd gathered my thoughts I came across the next bonus. Fast wi-fi, very close. This is how I've now managed to upload all my photo's to date (you may need to befriend me on Google+) and update this blog, pretty much to where I am now! (I'm sitting in this palace). 

Sampled the famous garlic curry at the Rawena palace hotel that evening, kinda wish I'd taken my camera but was charging the battery. And I didn't think that it would be such a spectacle of 15 dishes, with fresh lime soda and large bats flying around the open restaurant. 

Next morning up at 6am. Packed biscuits, water, bananas, oranges and chocolate for the walk up Ellas rock. This isn't a walk by English countryside standards. There's no signposts, you have to walk along railway tracks, across a rickety bridge, through head high reed fields, tea plantations, forests then a steep rocky top section. I was lost in the reed fields when a "farmer" popped out of nowhere to show me the way. I was glad, as I was on my own with no-one else about at that time. He lead me to the top to an incredible view, and super-fresh morning air. 

We stayed at the top for ages. He told me that his name is Javaheda (that's how it sounded anyway!) and he is actually a farmer, and produced tomato seeds - a sure fire sign of a farmer. I gave an approving nod and we had some food and drink. He didn't seem so sure when I pulled Monsta out of my bag though.

Quick jaunt down and I offered him 200 rupees for the help and walked off back down the tracks towards town. The rest of the day was spent doing the same, but in various other not quite so strenuous monkey infested walks then relaxing in the palace finishing the photo uploads and drinking tea.