(We're in Hanoi three times, using it as a base to go to Ha Long bay then Sapa then to the south. I'll put all three times in this post to keep it together)
1st time (14th April 2012)
New country! The third country on my trip (not counting the brief scout into Bangkok). The only option from the airport to Hanoi old quarter seems to be a taxi. Very nicely they tell us that another (Australian) couple are also going that way and we should share a cab with them. We will see this couple at many random intervals in Vietnam! The cab journey was extremely serene. The driver was very cautious. I thought it was just because my last reference was India, where nothing's serene, but the Australians thought to too. On arrival at the Hanoi old quarter we split from the Australians and walk about the main street looking for some cheap accommodation. Things are a lot easier here, everything feels a lot more western. Language is a bigger barrier here; English is not as widely spoken as in India, but it's extremely easy to pick up and recognise certain words. The main street in the French old quarter is bustling with people chatting, eating and drinking on tiny little bright blue or red plastic chairs. Motorbikes buzz about constantly with two, three, four and five people (and sometimes animals) on-board. We come across a hotel called the Queen palace. It's $15 a night for a twin room. Nothing special, just functional. As it's late and we're shattered from travelling for what seems like an eternity we take it and, after a quick local beer, pass out.
Next day we grab the free breakfast of baguette, fried egg and a cheese triangle then head out. The roads are infinitely busier now but still no-where near as crazy as India. The coffee here is extremely surprising at first. It tastes strong, almost like liquorish, and is very sweet when mixed with condensed milk. I assumed I would gain a kick from the caffeine but there was almost nothing. Is this because of my new mountain dew addiction? (which you can't get in Vietnam). What happened to the caffeine? Vietnam is the number two coffee exporter in the world (after Brazil), exporting double the amount of Colombia, so maybe they sell all the good stuff elsewhere, like Sri Lanka does with tea. I was a little disappointed, but still love the unique flavour.
Over the next two days we mostly say no thank you to people trying to sell you everything and anything. The variety of things to buy is mind-boggling. Wanting to ditch the stained, sweaty t-shirts I've been wearing for the last two months, and with Talitha threatening not to travel any further with me, I searched high and low for something with NO logo on it (to no avail). I don't need a t-shirt with Vietnamese beer logos and I definitely do not want one with "iPHO" emblazoned on the front. Just a nice, plain t-shirt would be lovely.
The food is just delicious. PHO (noodles) and COM (rice) with either GA (chicken) or BO (beef), and a side order of spring rolls and washed down with a BIA or CA PHE (I'll let you work those two out). The food is most delicious from the tiniest little street cafe's, where they might also serve BIA HOI: home-brewed, un-licenced, super-cheap and refreshing beer (quality does vary mind!) I learned last night, from a Dutch / Vietnamese girl, that the little accents that look like question marks mean you pronounce the word like a question, with an upwards inflection - even though it might not be a question.
For the second night we find a dorm in a hostel called May de Ville. It's $6 a night so not particularly cheap but it was amazing in every way. They booked our open bus ticket, booked the Ha Long and booked the Sapa tour, all with phone support if we needed it (thanks to ......). They had a free breakfast on the lovely rooftop cafe, the beds were big and comfortable and the shower was amazing. The only issue was the wi-fi in the rooms. It was shockingly bad to non-existent, despite the constant badgering (from everyone) of the technical guy. It was fine in reception though. For your information May de Ville also have a hotel in Hanoi, which I assume is severely more expensive! Next stop Ha Long bay
2nd time (18th April 2012)
The second time in Hanoi we literally arrive back from Ha Long bay in the afternoon. We go back to the May de Ville hostel who very kindly let us rest and use the internet until our bus arrived. We're recommended some pho by the doorman at the hostel. The cafe is tiny (maybe 8 seats) and is tucked down a back alley. This turns out to be the best pho I'll have in Vietnam. Cue the night bus to Sapa!
3rd time (23rd April 2012)
Arriving at 6am from Sapa on a night bus. Broken sleep and the after-effects of Nytol are never good for your head together. Swamped by people wanting to take us to the old quarter we jump in a taxi. After all this time on the bus and now in a taxi I desperately need to walk, so jump out as soon as we reach the town.
We only have a day here and May de Ville very kindly let us have a private room for a shower and a sleep for a few hours, with free breakfast! (I cannot recommend this hostel enough). In the afternoon I go for a walk around the lake and meet a Vietnamese student lawyer who wishes to better his English. I spend two hours with him. His English was good, but pronunciation bad, except when he sang, when it was amazing! Sitting by a lake with a Vietnamese student singing Beatles songs to you is a surreal experience. Once done with the lake I find a Korean restaurant and grab some food. I have a new found love of Korean food.
1st time (14th April 2012)
New country! The third country on my trip (not counting the brief scout into Bangkok). The only option from the airport to Hanoi old quarter seems to be a taxi. Very nicely they tell us that another (Australian) couple are also going that way and we should share a cab with them. We will see this couple at many random intervals in Vietnam! The cab journey was extremely serene. The driver was very cautious. I thought it was just because my last reference was India, where nothing's serene, but the Australians thought to too. On arrival at the Hanoi old quarter we split from the Australians and walk about the main street looking for some cheap accommodation. Things are a lot easier here, everything feels a lot more western. Language is a bigger barrier here; English is not as widely spoken as in India, but it's extremely easy to pick up and recognise certain words. The main street in the French old quarter is bustling with people chatting, eating and drinking on tiny little bright blue or red plastic chairs. Motorbikes buzz about constantly with two, three, four and five people (and sometimes animals) on-board. We come across a hotel called the Queen palace. It's $15 a night for a twin room. Nothing special, just functional. As it's late and we're shattered from travelling for what seems like an eternity we take it and, after a quick local beer, pass out.
Next day we grab the free breakfast of baguette, fried egg and a cheese triangle then head out. The roads are infinitely busier now but still no-where near as crazy as India. The coffee here is extremely surprising at first. It tastes strong, almost like liquorish, and is very sweet when mixed with condensed milk. I assumed I would gain a kick from the caffeine but there was almost nothing. Is this because of my new mountain dew addiction? (which you can't get in Vietnam). What happened to the caffeine? Vietnam is the number two coffee exporter in the world (after Brazil), exporting double the amount of Colombia, so maybe they sell all the good stuff elsewhere, like Sri Lanka does with tea. I was a little disappointed, but still love the unique flavour.
 |
| You want buy hat? |
The food is just delicious. PHO (noodles) and COM (rice) with either GA (chicken) or BO (beef), and a side order of spring rolls and washed down with a BIA or CA PHE (I'll let you work those two out). The food is most delicious from the tiniest little street cafe's, where they might also serve BIA HOI: home-brewed, un-licenced, super-cheap and refreshing beer (quality does vary mind!) I learned last night, from a Dutch / Vietnamese girl, that the little accents that look like question marks mean you pronounce the word like a question, with an upwards inflection - even though it might not be a question.
For the second night we find a dorm in a hostel called May de Ville. It's $6 a night so not particularly cheap but it was amazing in every way. They booked our open bus ticket, booked the Ha Long and booked the Sapa tour, all with phone support if we needed it (thanks to ......). They had a free breakfast on the lovely rooftop cafe, the beds were big and comfortable and the shower was amazing. The only issue was the wi-fi in the rooms. It was shockingly bad to non-existent, despite the constant badgering (from everyone) of the technical guy. It was fine in reception though. For your information May de Ville also have a hotel in Hanoi, which I assume is severely more expensive! Next stop Ha Long bay
2nd time (18th April 2012)
The second time in Hanoi we literally arrive back from Ha Long bay in the afternoon. We go back to the May de Ville hostel who very kindly let us rest and use the internet until our bus arrived. We're recommended some pho by the doorman at the hostel. The cafe is tiny (maybe 8 seats) and is tucked down a back alley. This turns out to be the best pho I'll have in Vietnam. Cue the night bus to Sapa!
3rd time (23rd April 2012)
Arriving at 6am from Sapa on a night bus. Broken sleep and the after-effects of Nytol are never good for your head together. Swamped by people wanting to take us to the old quarter we jump in a taxi. After all this time on the bus and now in a taxi I desperately need to walk, so jump out as soon as we reach the town.
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| The sleeper bus. Complete with FREEZING A/C. |
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| Yummmmm |
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