With the black clouds gathering in the mountains and distant rumbles of thunder I head to the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi ashram, where the Beatles spent time in 1969. Now derelict and overgrown by the forest out of town it's quite hard to find. The gate is locked but an old man with a gammy leg appears and lets you in for 50 rupees. I have no idea if this is official or not! The ashram is huge, and spread over a great area. You have no idea on walking in how much there is to see. Up the entrance slope you pass many domes that you might sit quietly inside, with great views back over the valley. At the top is what I guess was the main reception and village square, complete with fountain and postbox. Further back you encounter dining rooms, workshops and a great hall, complete with stage. Did the Beatles gig here?
Further back still towards the hills are the accommodation blocks - two huge structures, both slightly different architectural styles, buried in massive trees with what must be 50 small rooms in each. The storm is getting worse, the atmosphere is looming, the wind is clacking shutters and swirling leaves, it starts to rain but just occasional giant drops. Inside the blocks is dark and eerie! Several times I jumped around expecting to see another tourist standing there! Graffiti is daubed all over the walls, mostly nonsense tagging but plenty of lyrics and quotes from the famous four.
This is not a fruitless amble though a time machine though, I have a mission. That is to detach a tiny part of the ashram, to post back to England, for my Beatles loving family. What though? Searching around debris in the various buildings I found a nut and piece of sink from a kitchen. I tried to get a bolt from an old door but had nothing to prise it off with. Walking out of the spooky accommodation blocks and further up the hill I came across what seemed like a temple, with small concrete shrine in the middle. Very dark and quiet, the wind noise and storm outside fades into the background. The temple is covered in pebbles, on the walls and ceiling. I decide one of thee pebbles would be a perfect memento so set about getting one out of the wall using good old foot power!
Pebble in hand I head back as it's getting dark. On my way back I can hear music. There's a chap standing on top of one of the domes, belting out Beatles numbers! I sit and listen for a while then chat to him when he finishes. Turns out he's from Bristol, and loves the Beatles! (no shit!)
The next day I dunked the stone in the Ganges, for extra power and stored it, ready to post :)
On the roof of the accommodation blocks are more curious domes. The view down to the grounds around, the mountains and the setting sun over the Ganges is incredible. The wind gusts extremely hard and rapidly clattering sound like gunshots.
Pebble in hand I head back as it's getting dark. On my way back I can hear music. There's a chap standing on top of one of the domes, belting out Beatles numbers! I sit and listen for a while then chat to him when he finishes. Turns out he's from Bristol, and loves the Beatles! (no shit!)
The next day I dunked the stone in the Ganges, for extra power and stored it, ready to post :)
See this magic stone here in The Field
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cool to think that's all the way from Rishikesh!
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ReplyDeleteThe stone and bit of sink plus nut arrived safe and now sit on my desk. Maybe we can return to India when you are home and had enough of here again.
ReplyDeleteThe Beatles wrote many songs here at the ashram and most were included on The White Album. Dear Prudence was one.
Dear Prudence
Dear Prudence, won’t you come out to play
Dear Prudence, greet the brand new day
The sun is up, the sky is blue
It’s beautiful and so are you
Dear Prudence won’t you come out to play
Dear Prudence open up your eyes
Dear Prudence see the sunny skies
The wind is low the birds will sing
That you are part of everything
Dear Prudence won’t you open up your eyes?
Look around round round
Look around round round
Oh look around
Dear Prudence let me see you smile
Dear Prudence like a little child
The clouds will be a daisy chain
So let me see you smile again
Dear Prudence won’t you let me see you smile?
Dear Prudence, won’t you come out to play
Dear Prudence, greet the brand new day
The sun is up, the sky is blue
It’s beautiful and so are you
Dear Prudence won’t you come out to play
The subject of the song is actress Mia Farrow’s sister, Prudence Farrow, who was present when The Beatles went toIndia to study with Maharishi Mahesh Yogi.
Farrow became so serious about her meditation that she “turned into a near recluse” and “rarely came out” of the cottage she was living in. John Lennon was asked to “contact her and make sure she came out more often to socialize”. As a result, Lennon wrote the song “Dear Prudence”. In the song Lennon asks Farrow to “open up your eyes” and “see the sunny skies” reminding her that she is “part of everything”. The song was said to be “a simple plea to a friend to ‘snap out of it’”. Lennon said later that “She’d been locked in for three weeks and was trying to reach God quicker than anyone else”. According to Farrow: “I would always rush straight back to my room after lectures and meals so I could meditate. John, George and Paul would all want to sit around jamming and having a good time and I’d be flying into my room. They were all serious about what they were doing, but they just weren’t as fanatical as me”.
Lennon did play the song for Farrow while they were in India together. According to Farrow, “I was flattered. It was a beautiful thing to have done”. The lyrics of the song are simple and innocent and praise the beauty of nature in the lines: “The sun is up, the sky is blue, it’s beautiful, and so are you”.
I'd definitely go back to India
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