Tuesday 6 March 2012

Tissamaharama, Sri Lanka

I was unsure about coming here but as it's tucked neatly next to Yala national reserve and I really wanted to see some wildlife I thought an investigation was in order. The bus dropped me on a tiny high street, just a few shops but an array of tuk-tuk drivers as usual. As soon as I get off the bus I head across the street to a hotel and grab a samosa. As usual I could feel people looming down on me offering services. The guesthouse I had in mind was a way out of town, I had to get a tuk-tuk.

With the driver in the front and his friend in the back they began the hard sell! I was weary and after a little bargaining I decided to head to his friends guest house: it was half the price of the other place I'd chosen! Then the safari selling started. This is why most people come here to "Tissa" - to see leopards, elephants etc. I kept saying no no no, telling them i'd been to the best place in the world on safari.

Got to the guesthouse and it was the tuk-tuk drivers friends birthday, and they were in the garden drinking Sri Lankan whiskey. I got invited to sit with them so I did, and they gave me some whiskey, and some delicious food and all was good, but the safari selling never stopped. "More whiskey!" they said and topped up my glass. I could now see where this was going so stopped with the whiskey. One by one they spoke to me about the safari options and I kept a strong defence. Then they asked me if I wanted to go to a foundation party: his friend has just finished the foundations on his new house. They asked me if I liked to have "fun". I said I didn't understand their meaning of fun, but had an idea after the tuk-tuk driver experience. Indeed they did mean sex. I said absolutely not in a man-on-man way and told them i'd had the same question asked the other day! They explained it's common here. I asked about the women and they said that they can't have fun: they're not allowed to drink - only "certain" women can drink.

At this point the tuk-tuk drivers brother turned up and asked if i wanted to go to a famous temple with him. I said yes and made a hasty exit from the ever increasing drunkardness. He was fine, and explained that he doesn't like some of his brothers friends. He did though try the safari sell and also asked if I wanted a lady for the evening! Wtf! I declined both! The temple was lovely, full with locals singing and dancing.

I'm now extremely weary of Sri Lankan men, either because they want to sell me something or  want to have "fun". I really don't want to feel like this, it's bloody annoying. Also the extreme hard sell completely put me off the safari, which I was actually considering.

The next morning I bumped into a few of the hungover friends, who again went on about the safari. Stewing over the whole situation in the night I'd become highly irritated and ignored them and went for a walk by one of the wetlands nearby. Apart from the occasional tuk-tuk driver trying to flog me a safari it was blissfully serene with an abundance of birdlife and insects. This cleared my head a lot.



On my way back to the guesthouse I got talking to a lady washing her clothes in the river. She was an artist and sold her paintings in France. She took me to her house, i met her husband and looked at her art. Very colourful people paintings, not my thing but good. She made me sweet tea, sweet onion and egg hoppers for breakfast. Lovely lady! I wish I could remember her name. I wrote it down, but washed the piece of paper in my shirt.



She completely cleared the frustration and I left to grab my bag before the (non-gay) brother and his (hairdresser) friend dropped me at the bus stop. That arm on the hip is a dead giveaway I'm sure!




1 comment:

  1. Started reading yesterday Stu and didn't stop! Your writing is so honest and easy to relate to and your travels sound fascinating. Look forward to more posts.

    ReplyDelete